From 20+ years of teaching ยท picked on ratings, not payouts

The gear guide,
in the honest order.

I have taught piano for more than twenty years, and this is the exact gear I would buy for my own studio, my own home, and my own kid. Short list, real reasons, and permission to spend less than you thought.

The Amazon sentence, and what it actually means

The product links on this page are Amazon affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases, which in practice means Amazon sends a few cents my way when you buy through one, at no extra cost to you. If that feels weird, search the model names yourself and buy that way instead: you end up with the same gear and we stay friends. I picked everything here on ratings and real reviews, not on what pays best, and I left two popular keyboards off this list because their ratings were weak.

Step zero costs nothing

The most skipped step in music retail history

You do not need to buy anything to start. Every Piano Professor lesson plays on the computer keyboard you already own, and the learning is real: reading notes on a real staff, both clefs. Start free, find out if the interest is real, and let the gear be the reward instead of the gamble. When the keys click, come back to this page.

Try 5 free lessons right now โ†’

Keyboards: what I would actually buy

Four picks. Every one is class compliant: plug it in and the browser sees it, no drivers.

If you want to buy once and never think about it again

Roland FP-10 around $500

Eighty eight fully weighted hammer action keys, USB and Bluetooth MIDI. This is the one the app world consistently recommends, and it is the last keyboard most people ever buy. The key action is the real thing, so a student who learns on this can sit down at any acoustic piano and feel at home. If you can stretch to it, stretch.

See it on Amazon โ†’
If you want weighted keys and everything in the box

Yamaha P-143 bundle around $680

Eighty eight weighted keys with stand, bench, and sustain pedal included. Highest rated weighted piano I found, and a current best seller. If you saw the Yamaha P-45 recommended somewhere, this is its replacement: the P-45 is discontinued.

See it on Amazon โ†’
If you want the best starter that is not weighted

Casio CT-S1 around $260

Sixty one full size touch sensitive keys. Not weighted, and I want to be honest about that. But the keys are full width and they respond to how hard you play, which is what actually matters in the first year. This is a real instrument at a price a normal person can say yes to.

See it on Amazon โ†’
Classroom math  If you are outfitting a room

Casio CT-S200 around $160

Sixty one full size keys, USB MIDI. Five of these is about eight hundred dollars, which is a purchase order a school will actually approve. Five weighted eighty eights is four thousand, which is a grant application and a year of waiting.

See it on Amazon โ†’ Same board, full home bundle โ†’
What I left off on purpose: a few boards that get recommended a lot, because their actual ratings were weak. I would rather give you four I would defend than eight with filler in the middle. And if you already own something with a USB TO HOST port, you do not need a keyboard. You need a cable. Next section.

Cables: find yours in 30 seconds

Nobody thinks about the cable until the keyboard is out of the box and the app says no device found

Step one: look at your keyboard. Find the port labeled USB TO HOST. On almost every keyboard from the last fifteen years it is a square-ish port, wider at the bottom than the top. That is USB-B. If instead you see round ports with five little pins labeled MIDI IN and MIDI OUT, your keyboard is older: skip to the last item below.

Step two: look at your computer, tablet, or Chromebook. Small oval reversible port = USB-C (newer laptops and Chromebooks, iPad Air and Pro). Wide flat rectangle that only goes in one way = USB-A (most school Chromebooks and older laptops). Small flat Apple connector = Lightning (older iPads and iPhones).

Step three: buy the one cable that matches.

USB-B keyboard โ†’ USB-C device (the most common combo today)

UGREEN, six and a half feet, nylon braided, the best seller in MIDI cables. Or CableCreation, same job.

UGREEN โ†’ CableCreation โ†’
USB-B keyboard โ†’ USB-A device (most school Chromebooks)

Cable Matters, six feet. Or AINOPE, braided, six and a half feet.

Cable Matters โ†’ AINOPE โ†’
Older iPad with a Lightning port

You need Apple's camera adapter plus one of the USB-A cables above. Buy Apple's own: the cheap knockoffs fail, and it is not worth the twenty dollars you save.

Apple adapter โ†’
USB-C device and you already own a USB-A cable

Get the little adapter instead of a whole new cable. Two pack.

Adapter two pack โ†’
Older keyboard with round five pin MIDI ports only

You need a MIDI to USB interface. Plug the cable marked OUT into your keyboard's MIDI OUT, not MIDI IN. That one catches everybody.

MIDI to USB interface โ†’
Two things that save a support email: a charging cable is not a data cable, they look identical, and a charge-only cable is the number one reason people think their keyboard is broken. And buy one spare: cables fail, always at the worst possible moment. Outfitting a room? Two spares, in a drawer.

Headphones and setting up the space

The cheapest thing on this list changes a room more than anything else on it

Without headphones, one person plays and everybody else stops: the room holds one sound at a time. With headphones, every student plays full out at the same time and nobody waits. In a classroom that is the difference between five students getting real practice minutes and twenty five getting them. At home it is the difference between practicing when you want to and practicing when the house is empty. If you are building a group room and must choose, buy headphones before another keyboard. It is not close.

Classroom  Wired, on ear, ten pack

Wired matters: Bluetooth adds a delay between the key going down and the sound arriving, which is exactly the wrong thing when someone is learning to play in time. On ear survives a classroom and students actually keep them on. Most keyboards use a standard headphone jack; some use the larger quarter inch size and include the little adapter in the box, so check before ordering a pile.

Classroom ten pack โ†’
The pair I use: the adapter can never get lost

Keyboards split between the small eighth inch jack and the big quarter inch one, and the little screw-on adapter that bridges them is designed by the universe to vanish. This pair switches between both sizes with the adapter built to stay attached, which quietly ended one of the real nuisances in my room. If one set of headphones follows you between different keyboards, make it this one.

See them on Amazon โ†’

The rest of the setup, cheap:

You do not need: a sustain pedal on day one. A stand, if you have a table. A weighted keyboard, in year one. An amp, ever. Start small. Add when something actually gets in your way.

Not sure which pick is yours?

Post your keyboard model, your budget, or a picture of the mystery port in our free community and I will tell you the exact thing to buy, including when the answer is keep your money. Teachers: this page is meant to be shared, so send it to your families and nobody ever buys the wrong cable again.

Ask in the free community โ†’ See what the gear plugs into โ†’